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  • The aim of the study was to evaluate the validity and reliability of different arm positions for finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers. Forty six climbers completed finger flexor strength measurement on a climbing specific device with four different arm positions: 1 - handgrip, shoulder flexed at 0o, elbow fully extended; 2 - shoulder flexed at 90o and externally rotated, elbow flexed at 90o (position 90/90); 3 - shoulder abducted at 130o, elbow flexed at 50o (position 130/50), 4 - shoulder flexed at 180o, elbow fully extended (position 180/0). Intra-session reliability from 3 trials was assessed by an intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC). To assess the criterion related validity repeated analysis of covariance was used (4 x 2 x 2) with the arm position as a within subject factor, sex and climbing ability as between subject factors, and body mass as a covariate. The criterion was represented by self-reported climbing ability. A high ICC was found for all arm positions ranging from 0.95 to 0.98. The highest variability explained by climbing ability in finger strength was found in the 180/0 position (ηp2 = 0.25) and 130/50 position (ηp2 = 0.25). The handgrip test had the lowest validity to the reported climbing ability (ηp2 = 0.05). It was concluded that the positions 180/0 and 130/50 are most suitable to assess finger flexor strength in climbers.
  • The aim of the study was to evaluate the validity and reliability of different arm positions for finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers. Forty six climbers completed finger flexor strength measurement on a climbing specific device with four different arm positions: 1 - handgrip, shoulder flexed at 0o, elbow fully extended; 2 - shoulder flexed at 90o and externally rotated, elbow flexed at 90o (position 90/90); 3 - shoulder abducted at 130o, elbow flexed at 50o (position 130/50), 4 - shoulder flexed at 180o, elbow fully extended (position 180/0). Intra-session reliability from 3 trials was assessed by an intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC). To assess the criterion related validity repeated analysis of covariance was used (4 x 2 x 2) with the arm position as a within subject factor, sex and climbing ability as between subject factors, and body mass as a covariate. The criterion was represented by self-reported climbing ability. A high ICC was found for all arm positions ranging from 0.95 to 0.98. The highest variability explained by climbing ability in finger strength was found in the 180/0 position (ηp2 = 0.25) and 130/50 position (ηp2 = 0.25). The handgrip test had the lowest validity to the reported climbing ability (ηp2 = 0.05). It was concluded that the positions 180/0 and 130/50 are most suitable to assess finger flexor strength in climbers. (en)
Title
  • The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
  • The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers (en)
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  • The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers
  • The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers (en)
skos:notation
  • RIV/00216208:11510/14:10288167!RIV15-MSM-11510___
http://linked.open...avai/riv/aktivita
http://linked.open...avai/riv/aktivity
  • I
http://linked.open...iv/cisloPeriodika
  • 2
http://linked.open...vai/riv/dodaniDat
http://linked.open...aciTvurceVysledku
http://linked.open.../riv/druhVysledku
http://linked.open...iv/duvernostUdaju
http://linked.open...titaPredkladatele
http://linked.open...dnocenehoVysledku
  • 43080
http://linked.open...ai/riv/idVysledku
  • RIV/00216208:11510/14:10288167
http://linked.open...riv/jazykVysledku
http://linked.open.../riv/klicovaSlova
  • criterion related validity; sport climbing; isometric strength (en)
http://linked.open.../riv/klicoveSlovo
http://linked.open...odStatuVydavatele
  • GB - Spojené království Velké Británie a Severního Irska
http://linked.open...ontrolniKodProRIV
  • [3781A707D946]
http://linked.open...i/riv/nazevZdroje
  • International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport
http://linked.open...in/vavai/riv/obor
http://linked.open...ichTvurcuVysledku
http://linked.open...cetTvurcuVysledku
http://linked.open...UplatneniVysledku
http://linked.open...v/svazekPeriodika
  • 14
http://linked.open...iv/tvurceVysledku
  • Baláš, Jiří
  • Martin, Andrew J.
  • Panáčková, Michaela
  • Cochrane, Darryl J.
  • Kodejška, Jan
http://linked.open...ain/vavai/riv/wos
  • 000339567100001
issn
  • 1474-8185
number of pages
http://localhost/t...ganizacniJednotka
  • 11510
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